While recent seasons have seen much discussion about redefining luxury, Brioni has always had the one true formula up its sleeve: Slow Luxury is embedded in the DNA of the Roman master tailor. More than 24 hours for a bespoke suit, over 16 hours for a ready-to-wear blazer, 32 hours for a dinner jacket—the luxury factor of time is woven into the creations of this esteemed Roman fashion house.
Brioni: 100% Made in Italy
Every step of the tailoring process is rooted in the highest precision, from hand-stitched details to traditionally crafted buttonholes. Even today, dozens of hands carry out specialised tasks that have remained virtually unchanged since the founding of Brioni’s first atelier—everything is 100% Made in Italy. After the global devastation of World War II, master tailor Nazareno Fonticoli established his first workshop in 1945 in the medieval town of Penne, in the Pescara region of Abruzzo. Brioni’s present-day identity remains deeply intertwined with this rich heritage.
To ensure the future of its exceptional craftsmanship, Brioni recently launched the Alta Sartoria training programme in Penne, dedicated to nurturing the artisans of tomorrow. The house’s philosophy is also its business model. With its Art of Slow Luxury manifesto, Brioni was honoured with the Sustainable Fashion Award at Milan Fashion Week in September 2024. Clearly moved, CEO Mehdi Benabadji accepted the award in the Craft and Artisanship category on the stage of La Scala, presented by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and handed over by actor Adriano Giannini.
Such success is rarely accidental: Since 2018, Austrian fashion designer Norbert Stumpf has been responsible for Brioni’s design and creative direction. Before his tenure, the luxury brand had somewhat lost its way in the 2010s. Even a brief collaboration with style icon Justin O’Shea as Creative Director in 2016 was discontinued after just one season. Two years later, Stumpf took over—bringing with him an impressive résumé, with previous roles at Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Lanvin, and Louis Vuitton.
Stumpf recalls: “At the time, the brand was mainly associated with suits and high-end tailoring, which is, of course, a central part of our identity. But today, we have evolved Brioni from a purely tailoring-focused brand into a full lifestyle label. Our philosophy is to extend the craftsmanship that defines our suits into other categories, including casualwear, knitwear, leather goods, accessories, and eveningwear.”
One of Stumpf’s early milestones at Brioni was the highly successful collaboration with Hollywood legend Brad Pitt, which led to the 2021 BP Signature capsule collection. Then came another bold move in 2022: Womenswear, Brioni-style. Few had seen it coming.
The first pieces from the La Donna collection were introduced with the Autumn/Winter 2022/23 season. Initially, it was a capsule collection of just five to six looks, available exclusively as Made-To-Order. Since then, the line has grown into a fully-fledged collection and, for the first time last winter, became available through Brioni’s global online store.
For Spring/Summer 2025, La Donna continues to embody a meticulous expression of timeless craftsmanship with a modern touch. Rooted in whisper-soft tones of subtle elegance, the collection features flowing fabrics, designed for today’s lifestyle—effortlessly refined and full of lightness for all facets of life.
In just a few seasons, La Donna has become an increasingly significant collection for the house, continually expanding while experimenting with the interplay between masculine and feminine elements. The focus is on near-weightless fabrics: light wool, linen, cotton, silk, crêpe, and silk faille. Oversized shirts are paired with matching shorts and trousers, layered over long slip dresses whose extended silhouettes evoke fluidity and grace, complemented by both flowing trench coats and cropped jackets. One standout piece is a striking black tuxedo, adorned with 8,000 small, hand-knotted silk-thread crystals—an exquisite testament to craftsmanship and Brioni’s deep commitment to artisanal excellence.
Yet, even for its equally luxurious womenswear line, Design Director Norbert Stumpf deliberately avoids runway shows: “Catwalk shows are great, but for Brioni, it makes more sense to highlight the exclusivity and quality of the brand through curated presentations. So much time is spent perfecting the collar, the pocket, and the ideal silhouette,” Stumpf remarked in an interview earlier this year.
“For me, it’s important that my team and I explain to people all the small details they might overlook in a fashion show. This approach makes the depth of our work visible. It’s about getting closer to the garments, touching them, and appreciating the meticulous craftsmanship. That’s what truly matters—making the small, often invisible details stand out.”
There could hardly be a better way to articulate Brioni’s Art of Slow Luxury manifesto. And so, the philosophy remains unchanged: Alta Sartoria in every collection.
Visit the official Brioni website and check out the new collection.
Read more:
