Pitti Uomo is the world’s menswear trade show, unmatched globally, and where Florence becomes the epicentre of men’s fashion every season, drawing established influencers and aspiring trendsetters. This summer, which is already the next season in the fashion world, clear trends emerge at Fortezza da Basso, the venue that hosts the biannual event, attracting around 20,000 visitors.
Pitti Uomo in Florence
Among those visitors are the so-called Peacocks, the Pitti dandies have traditionally played a significant role. These impeccably dressed gentlemen in bespoke outfits have visually dominated the scene, regardless of their business appointments. However, the presence of the Peacocks seems to be waning. While groups of four to five strolling Pitti Peacocks in vibrant double-breasted suits or crisp white ensembles (complete with vintage sunglasses, Borsalino hats, silk ties, pocket squares, elegant monk straps, Budapest shoes, loafers, moccasins and equally refined leather bags and accessories), are still unmistakable, they no longer set the trend.
A younger, more liberated generation is bringing a fresh style sensibility to the forefront, best described as: streetwear with a Pitti twist. Prada loafers and Birkin bags now accompany tank tops and surfer shorts from labels like Acne and Our Legacy. Luxury sneakers have seamlessly integrated into this fashion landscape, adding comfort and versatility. Everyday jeans and T-shirts are enhanced with scarves and sunglasses from French luxury brands. A statement watch, select jewellery pieces, and perhaps a Jacquemus baseball cap adds a contemporary flair. The guiding principle: Anything goes—as long as it’s stylish and high fashion.
The most significant driver of transformation in menswear is the trouser, a trend evident at Pitti Uomo. All signs point to loose-fit and oversized styles, with slim-cut suit trousers, tight chinos, and even stretch jeans now decidedly out. At the innovative presentation by fashion master Sir Paul Smith in the neoclassical Villa Favard, lightweight fabric blends of linen and mohair wool in casual cuts took centre stage. Trouser legs, if not rolled up, are allowed to hang heavily, emphasizing a relaxed, elegant silhouette with up to three pleats. Ties, if worn at all, are now loosely and casually knotted, signalling a move away from this traditional accessory.
Another influence on the relaxed style in menswear for 2024/25 comes from genderless concepts and Oriental culture. Designer and Creative Consultant Julian Daynov, who was a notable presence at Pitti Uomo, confirms these trend directions but also advocates for a great deal of individual freedom in men's fashion: “For me, authenticity is the new cool, and it's a concept I firmly believe in. My mission is to encourage people to experiment more and free themselves from outdated norms, rules, and regulations that paradoxically limit our imagination and openness. If someone feels good in a style, it doesn't matter which department or season the pieces come from,” says the Berlin-based creative.
Shirt specialist Seidensticker unveiled the third drop of their collaboration with Julian Daynov at Pitti Uomo. The wardrobe capsules from the new sub-brand, Studio Seidensticker, feature voluminous overshirts, shirts, and pleated trousers designed for a layered look. Each piece also functions perfectly as an essential on its own. The second drop included a caftan—a representation of Daynov's fashion philosophy that aligns seamlessly with current menswear trends.
Unsurprisingly, fashion icon Cameron Silver travelled from Los Angeles to Florence for the 106th Pitti Uomo to present his latest book, “Caftans: From Classical to Camp.”
So it seems that while the Peacocks’ style is evolving with today’s trend towards casualisation–favouring comfort over strict adherence to traditional rules–many aspects of Pitti’s yearly display remain rooted in tradition. This includes the quality of the brands, the calibre of visitors, and the evident respect for making an effort in one’s attire. After all, it is Italy.
Header Picture by: chillaxingroad
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Last Updated on June 20, 2024 by Editorial Team
