From gem mining to jewelry design, meet French contemporary jewelry designer Emmanuel Tarpin, whose appreciation for raw materials set him apart.
According to legend, emeralds have a calming effect, so it’s no wonder they are the favourite stones of this nature-loving designer, whose passion for the natural world plays a big part in his work. In a recent collection, Emmanuel presented a seven-piece collection expertly sculpted to capture the intricacy and intrigue of the orchid flower.
Growing up in the French Alps with a close-knit family, Emmanuel naturally developed a love for the world outside his front door. He often hiked around his home with his father, searching for various types of stones. This was the beginning of his lifelong treasure hunt. “I used to go on many hikes with my father, searching for quartz in the Alps–amethyst, white quartz, rose quartz. That’s how it all started. I ended up building a large collection of rough gemstones. I owe it to my family; they are incredible, and we share a deep connection.” He adds, “When I was a child, I would see gems and have stars in my eyes. I was always curious about grandma’s jewelry box. I recall a snake ring, with a ruby and sapphire.”
Fast forward a few decades, and Emmanuel has successfully combined his passions inherited from his family–gemology, nature and travel–and taken them to the next level. “Traveling is a big passion of mine. I wanted to merge it with my love for gemstones, so I talked with a very good friend who has good access to the mines. Now, luckily, at least once a year, I embark on a trip to different places around the world, each location offering a unique stone.”
So just last year, Emmanuel traded the French Alps for the Colombian Andes in search of some of the world’s most sought-after stones. Venturing into the South American mines, he experienced mining in Muzo, located in a remote part of Boyaca, northwest of Bogota in the high Andes mountains. “You have to go to different mines for different stones, as in different types of emerald. In Muzo, you will find intense green stones. Emmanuel also explored Colombia’s Chivor Mine, known for its bluish-green emeralds. He jokingly added, “It’s the best way to look very pretentious at a dinner party when you can say ‘Oh that’s a Muzo emerald’. As well as their rich hues–I am very sensitive to colors–emeralds are beautiful because of their crystals. Most of the time you have inclusions in gems (mineral crystals or cavities filled with fluid or gas that occur in a host gemstone). In French we poetically refer to them as ‘le jardin de l’emeraude’-the garden of the emerald. Meaning, ‘a gem with a soul.’
Hunting for treasure might sound like the most exotic job on earth, but for Emmanuel, it’s about much more than just bringing home a shiny souvenir. “It’s mining but not actually to buy gems,” he explains. “For me, it’s about a love for jewelry making, mining is part of the process, from the first inspiration to the final piece. Every step is amazing to me.” As a designer, he emphasises that “everything is linked” in the creative journey.
Beyond the gems, Emmanuel highlights the importance of getting to know and understand the life of the miners, to acknowledge the work they do. “Meeting the miners is very precious, they are base of everything. Mining is quite dangerous and they don’t have the security measures we have. For me its about respecting their work. We stay with a family of miners, go to the mines every day, we follow their routines, we dine with them and go deep into their culture. Understanding and respecting their work is essential to expanding my knowledge.”
Clearly, for Emmanuel, creating jewelry is much more than designing show-stopping pieces for red carpet moments; it’s deeply connected to people and their stories. He emphasises the significance of the gem’s journey–from unearthing the stone to delivering the final piece to the client–and where it ultimately finds its new home. “I love to share stories through my designs,” he explains. “The story of the jewel becomes part of the story shared with the client.” He adds, “Jewelry is about creating memories with my clients. The moment you present the piece to the client, you can see the connection on their faces–it’s about that instant spark, that ‘crush’ moment.”
When asked about his own ‘crush’ piece, Emmanuel mentions his wedding ring. He shows what looks like a simple, classic band on his finger. “I wanted something very easy and masculine. What you cannot see is that the inside is encrusted with diamonds, but the outside is understated. I believe that the most precious things don’t need to be shown to everyone. It’s something very intimate that you choose to share, or not. The most precious part is against your skin.”
Discover Emmanuel’s one-of-a-kind pieces at emmanuel-tarpin.com, and follow his gem-finding adventures at @emmanuel_tarpin.
Describe yourself in three words.
“Dreamer, passionate and spontaneous.”
What/who inspires you?
“Nature and flowers, travel, paintings, fashion, art nouveau.”
Famous who wear your pieces
“Sharon Stone, Rhianna, Jonny Depp. People I love and who inspire me. I am not a huge red carpet designer. I prefer people to come to me, who are interested. The piece has to speak to the client, don’t want to force people to wear my jewelry, it doesn’t feel natural that way.”
What jewelry do you travel with?
“Only my wedding ring and a ‘simple’ diamond necklace. I do a lot of hikes and climbing so I am not really supposed to wear much jewelry.”
And if you were not designing jewelry…
“I could be a floral artist. I love flowers. Or a pastry chef. At Geneva School of Art and Design I was thinking of creating a collection made entirely of chocolate.”
Last Updated on October 22, 2024 by Editorial Team
