“I adore blending the new and unfamiliar with my own here and now,” Dorothee Schumacher tells us, her voice brimming with passion. “It’s all about keeping an open heart – regardless of age or nationality.”
Dorothee Schumacher is a rarity among German fashion designers, known internationally for her signature style. Many, she confesses, are surprised to discover the German origins of her luxury label, founded in 1989. This summer, she marked the 35th anniversary of her brand with a grand fashion festival at her home base in Mannheim (Germany, near Frankfurt). With a thriving wholesale business, a global e-commerce platform, and around 50 Schumacher boutiques worldwide, her brand brought in about €58 million last year. In this candid conversation with NOBLE&STYLE, Dorothee shares some unforgettable moments from the anniversary, her thoughts on enduring friendships as clients, her first collection, and the lively “Dorotiiiii” shouts she hears in Italy.
Dorothee, the anniversary festivities were a few weeks ago now. Why did you choose to celebrate the 35th in such a big way?
For me, it was about gathering friends, family, early clients, our inner circle, and the whole team. Each one has played a part in our story, creating a beautiful mosaic of our journey. And, let’s face it, we just love a good party! I wanted to bring all these remarkable people together and revel in the moment.
What were your top three moments from the Anniversary festival?
Undoubtedly, seeing the entire team walk the runway was magic. They’ve worked so hard and truly deserved that moment. It was also wonderful to have all 25 models who’ve been with us over the years in the show—it made everything so much more meaningful. Behind the scenes, standing with my kids was a deeply emotional moment for me. And the “magic moment”? Knowing that 1,000 people made the trip to Mannheim just to celebrate with us. There were no walls between guests; everyone was part of something bigger. It was a kind of alchemy, really. Friends of Dorothee.
You invited 1,000 “Friends of Dorothee.” How does one become a “Friend”?
It’s all about having an open heart, regardless of age or nationality. Our “Friends” are light-hearted, curious, and joyful. Of course, being a client helps, but it’s the deeper connection with the brand that brings us together.
Your brand has this rare, international allure, even though it’s German. How do people respond to that abroad?
It’s always charming when Italians call out, “Dorotiiiii,” or when Americans say, “I don’t travel without my Dorothees.” But the funniest part? Many people don’t even realise we’re German.
Do you remember your first collections? Can you recall your very first one, over 35 years ago?
Absolutely! Each collection is a memory, and many of our clients still own pieces from those early days. These “collector’s items” carry stories that evolve with time—it’s something truly special.
The luxury market is facing serious challenges right now. How are you navigating these, especially in wholesale?
Our partners value the personal connection to our brand and the quality of our work—which is especially important in uncertain times. They tell us our collections are admired not only for their quality but for their fashion-forward edge and emotional resonance. Our brand has a cross-generational appeal that lets us reach both long-time clients and younger women. This gives us, and our partners, confidence, even during tough periods. We lean into these relationships to tackle wholesale challenges together.
Are “Friends” always profitable clients? Luxury retail relies more and more on a few “best buyers.” Can that strain friendships?
We grow alongside our best clients. But it’s not just about sales; it’s about shared experiences and emotional moments that bind us. These connections go beyond products—they’re about shared values and stories. When times get challenging, that bond of trust and authenticity is what keeps us close.
What can “Friends” look forward to in 2025?
We’re already planning Festival 2.0 in Mannheim, which will be a major highlight! We’re upgrading our retail concept, with plans to roll it out next year. And there’s a new retail location in an exclusive holiday destination, where clients can connect with us at their leisure. It’s all about building more personal connections and unique experiences. We’re excited for this next chapter.
You’ve been working with the Colombian furniture brand, Tucurinca. That seems an unusual choice for a luxury fashion label.
I’m drawn to anything that shifts my perspective—that’s when I know it’s right. That’s how our DS x Tucurinca collaboration came about. These vibrant colours evoke a sense of carefree joy and life that I associate with South America, and those handwoven pieces had my heart from the start.
How did the collaboration come to be?
When the first pieces found their way into my home, I quickly realised I wanted to meet the people behind this brand. So, I travelled to Colombia. What started as a visit turned into a deep friendship. Tucurinca is a passion project for me—the craftsmanship, sustainable production, and the incredible people make it something truly special.
And the furniture integrates seamlessly with your fashion brand.
I love blending the new and the unfamiliar with my world. It felt natural to turn this encounter into a lasting partnership. The pieces bring life to our Düsseldorf showroom and other retail locations. Clients are genuinely moved by the warmth and vibrancy of these unique items—they resonate with people in such a special way.
In 2006, The Devil Wears Prada featured your designs, with Anne Hathaway and Meryl Streep wearing your pieces. How did that impact the brand back then?
Seeing our brand name in the credits, next to Chanel and Hermès, was thrilling. But what meant more to me was watching Anne Hathaway’s character find her style—and Dorothee Schumacher was part of that transformation. Those electric moments happen when personal style meets the right piece.
That must apply to other iconic figures who’ve worn your designs.
Exactly. Take Taylor Swift in our suit, or one of the most moving moments—when German actress Iris Berben and Margot Friedländer wore the same dress during a speech. It captured their inner connection. When it’s authentic, it resonates, and the world notices. For me, it’s always about helping each woman express her own self through the perfect piece.
Dorothee, thank you for the conversation!
Last Updated on November 11, 2024 by Editorial Team
